The author complains that when men cook they only put one dish (type of food) on the table:
なぜならその一品は、素材を選び抜いて、奮発して、時間をかけて、腕によりをかけて、凝りに凝って出された逸品なのだから。
If (you ask) why that one dish, it's because it is a masterpiece in which he has singled out the ingredients, spent a lot of money, taken time, put all his skill into and ????
I can't understand the part in bold. 凝る has several meanings, none of which I can get to fit, nor do I understand the grammar of the pattern 凝りに凝って.
Also why do we switch to passive for だす when the rest of the sentence is in active voice?
Answer
Ａ（連用形）にＡ（活用） uses repetition of the same verb as a pattern for emphasis; the 活用 part is often seen as ～て or ～た.
Here 凝{こ}る means to pour an inordinate amount of focus / energy into something. To give something one's all, or to be absorbed in.
The passive is used here for 出す to change the focus from the subject (the person making the food), to the object (the dish being made).
なぜならその一品は、素材を選び抜いて、奮発して、時間をかけて、腕によりをかけて、凝りに凝って出された逸品なのだから。
(Without context) The reason why being that the dish served is something that he has agonized over choosing ingredients; something that he has taken time on and poured his all into doing his best work; a masterpiece he's been completely absorbed in.
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